From Silk Ribbon to Gold Button: The Evolution of the Cufflink
This autumn, Veilinggebouw De Zwaan is offering a variety of cufflinks from several private collections. For some, they are an essential accessory; for others, a distinctive finishing touch to fasten a double cuff. Crafted in silver and gold, set with diamonds or pearls, adorned with guilloché enamel or cut minerals, and perfectly suited to every occasion, cufflinks remain the quintessential accessory for the discerning gentleman.
The history of the cufflink is not easily summarised. What is clear, however, is that cufflinks were traditionally worn by the elite. In earlier times, from around the seventeenth century onwards, when collars and cuffs were worn separately over the shirt, cuffs were fastened together with small chains, wire or silk ribbons. Precious metals were not necessarily rare at the time, but their use was largely reserved for the wealthiest members of society. Early examples of cufflinks are therefore exceptionally rare.
By the late eighteenth century, double cuffs had become an integral part of the shirt, partly as greater attention was being paid to personal hygiene. The cufflink consequently gained widespread acceptance, not only as a practical accessory but also as an ornamental jewel and a status symbol, allowing the wearer to distinguish himself in style.
While aristocrats of the time had no qualms about wearing diamond brooches on their lapels and threading sumptuous ribbons through their cuffs, the nineteenth century saw cufflinks gain a much wider following. Gold examples engraved with initials, family crests or personal mottos were a common sight, peeking out from beneath the sleeves of an overcoat. They served less as a practical necessity than as a means of distinction.
The twentieth century, with all its innovations, ushered in the golden age of the cufflink. A succession of rapidly evolving styles gave rise to an extraordinary variety of designs, crafted in numerous precious metals and embellished with gemstones. Cufflinks became a widely embraced and frequently worn item of men’s jewellery, offering more than ever a way to express individuality and stand apart from the crowd.
Today, countless beautiful and timeless pairs of cufflinks from bygone eras have stood the test of time. Veilinggebouw De Zwaan is delighted to present a fine selection in its Jewellery section.
